One thing to remember when traveling with 2 senior citizens is that they dont move at your pace. Another thing to remember when traveling with two SC of Armenian descent is that they will complain about a lot. Hence my weekend in Plovdiv went something like this:
We left in good time for the train on Saturday morning. It leaves at 9 so we left the house at 7:45 because everyone kept telling me it was FAR from town. (When will I learn FAR is relative??). We got there in less than ten minutes and we had over an hour to kill.
I bravely approached the ticket window to get our return tickets. The ticket seller shooed me away. I did the "I have no idea what you are saying so you better deal with me now" routine and so she did. I have learned when traveling that its better for them to just deal with foreigners than to try to explain whatever it is they have issues with.
So I said "Return Turnovo, Plovdiv" and made a circular sign with my hand, then said "Three tickets", holding up three fingers. I knew the one way was somewhere around ten each and return, I was told was about 14 leva per person, quite the savings than purchasing two one ways.
I got handed a ticket totalling 30 leva and 90 stutinky. Well she had only done the one way. I said. "NO! RETURN. Turnovo, Plovdiv, Turnovo." Still nothing but Bulgarian crustiness coming my way (customer service isnt their forte here). I began getting progressively irritated with this blond fifty something dame behind the window. WHY PUT A COMPLETE NON ENGLISH SPEAKER IN A POSITION WHERE SHE WOULD BE DEALING WITH TOURISTS?????
So, as I do with my students who dont listen, I switched to Armenian. I said "Hima incha? doo es skhalvel, ches oozoom mek hat el tepes?? Yalla depi, te che ke khepem vor ooteh gres!" Did you get that? No? Neither did she. My mom did though and she was laughing her head off, which didnt help this dames frustration any. (FYI, the above says: just because you made a mistake, you dont want to print another ticket? Hurry up and print one or else I'll smack you so you spin into a figure 8-an old Armenian saying much used in my household!)
I even got a piece of paper from her and wrote on it:
Turnovo Plovdiv, 10 leva
Turnovo Plovdiv, Turnovo 14 leva.
She mumbled something else in Bulgarian, typed something in the computer, showed me 18 leva, and I said "OK DO IT!" And she still grumbled at me. WHAT EVER HAPPENED TO THE CUSTOMER IS ALWAYS RIGHT?????
The above being the condensed version, this discussion went on for a few minutes with volumes in Armenian and Bulgarian rising higher and higher, and finally I whipped the ticket back into her little slot and said "Tepi te che hashiver ke hasnem" and she seemed to get the threat I had just made on her life in Armenian and printed me three return ticket. "Janet doos ga" was my answer. Sorry that is not translatable!
We waited in the communist bulding which as Armenians say could blow over with one deep breath, and froze ourselves till the train finally arrived. As the passengers piled in, they all left the premises for smoke breaks leaving the door wide open behind them. What is with that????
The train was also communist. It was a bajillion years old and cold. We sat and I listenend to my mom and R complain about the cold for 5 hours. It was a lovely trip into town :)
We got out of the train station in Plovdiv and it was raining. So we took the first cab. BIG MISTAKE!
He headed in the wrong direction. BIG SURPRISE. and I whipped out the map and started pointing behind us. He stopped a total of five times to ask directions, by which time I was again going off in Armenian saying things to him in a tense tone which made this humongous man rather uncomfortable. He was actually squirming in his seat because he knew I was mad and knew he was ripping us off. I was barking at him in Armenian and so was Robert. Together we had him shaking in his boots. By the time he FINALLY found the hotel our bill was 7 leva. His meter was clicking awfully fast. I wasnt giving that fat slob of a thief 7 nothing! I jumped out of the car, ran into the hotel, and brought out the concierge. I told him to tell the taxi driver that if he doesnt know the address, he shouldnt pick up the ride and said he wasnt getting what was on the meter. I stupidly handed over a 5, which I found out on the way back was 3 leva too much and stomped into the hotel. All this and I felt bad! WHYYYYYYYYYYYY??????????? WHY??????????????
I have no bigger hate-on than the one I have for taxi drivers. Korea ruined me, Thailand made it worse, and Bulgaria has topped it off for me. Yet I still felt bad. I am such a sucker!
The hotel was divine. It had a bath tub. Need I say more?
We headed out to find the Roman Amphitheatre immediately as we didnt have much daylight left, but we got caught in the rain with no umbrella, so we took refuge in a coffee shop and had espressos and Cappuccinos, which they make exceptionally well here, and headed back to the hotel. Such an excursion!
I soaked in the tub for close to an hour. Heavenly it was, all the while getting and sending sweet messages to S in England who was on a bus and wished he was in Plovdiv instead. I got out rather prune like, got dressed, and we went out for dinner.
Old Plovdiv restaurant proved to be so so. The thing I have learned about restaurants not only here but certainly in Korea as well is that all the food is the same and it gets really boring really fast. So I cook most of the time. I also dont like the double standanrd of restaurants having 2 menus with 2 prices, so I dont go often. Salads were ok but the other food was not so great and we had a mediocre meal, punctuated by complaints (of course).
We returned home full but unsatisfied (the best part of the meal was a surprise dessert I decided to order called "Ashura" and with the Persian connotations to that word I had to try it. It was barley in a sweet pudding, with nuts and raisins, not too sweet, just right but mysterious all the same). I read and spoke to my honey, and then went to sleep.
Sunday proved to be a vast improvement, not in the weather but in the willingness of everyone involved to get out and DO stuff. We headed downstairs for our breakfast and then went into old town. We walked around taking photos and buying souvenirs and then found the Armenian Church. We went in and sat down. It was sweet smelling with the smell of Khoonk (insence) and sat there listening to the chants I have heard thousands of times as a child. Suddenly I realized I didnt know what country I was in. I honestly felt transported to Iran where I used to attend church at school. It was mandatory (kind of).
I realized how at home I felt in that church and it didnt matter what country I was in. It was strange to feel that way because I am really not that religious, but it wasnt so much about religion. They say smell is the strongest memory, and I think the khoonk took me right back to "Institute Mariamme" were I went to primary school. Being a Catholic establishment, we had a church attached to it. And incidentally, why was there a Catholic Church with the same exact ceremony as the Orthodox Armenian church? I just thought of that and I do not have an answer to it!!
So we left with our souls fed AND satisfied and headed back to the hotel which was directly across the highway from the church. We took our bags out and decided to go in search of the Amphitheatre again. We went in a loop to end up again just across the highway and we ended up on the wrong side of it, and couldnt see it. I guess it wasnt meant to be, and with the train leaving in an hour, we felt pressed for time and took off.
The cab ride back to the station was 5 minutes and 2 leva!!!!! That's right. I have NO idea what the first cabbie was doing to start with but if I see him again, he'll be in deep doo doo! BASTARD!
I wont even go into the train ride home except to say it was the longest thing I have endured second ONLY to the 11 hour bus ride I had to endure from Quito to Cuenca in 2003. It smelled stale and smokey in the train and it wasnt all that warm, though warmer than Saturday, and the highlight of the trip was finding out the loo dumps onto the tracks. A disgusting idea if you ask me but apparently its true. YUK! Dont walk on the tracks.
What is the moral of this mind-numbing blog entry. I learned three things I will never do; I will never take the train again. I will never take a cab that is not "OK" taxi again, and I will never EVER take directions from a Bulgarian. I discovered map reading is a western art and if you live somewhere chances are you dont know the names of the street but you know the name of the guy who owns the shop on the corner of the street you need to turn on, and hey WHAT GOOD IS THAT TO ME????